THE Great Ocean Road

This National Heritage-listed route is one of Australia's most iconic drives. Officially, the Great Ocean Road is the 243 kilometre section of route B100 stretching from Torquay in the east, terminating in the town of Warrnambool. Note that you're also driving on Australia's longest war memorial. The highway was built by some 3,000 servicemen returned home after the end of the First World War. Construction began in 1919 and the project was completed in 1932. In 2004, the Great Ocean Walk was completed. Hugging the coast, this 104-kilometre network of trails stretches from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles. 

The driving route is well marked, but I found having a local SIM card really helpful. There are dozens of attractions to see long the way: hikes to hidden waterfalls, isolated beaches, and opportunities for wildlife viewing. Because dining and accommodation options are limited, it was also great to be able to check on opening hours and availability. See my post on getting connected abroad for more details. 

Depart Melbourne

Most journeys on the Great Ocean road start from Melbourne, Victoria. The route's most famous site, the Twelve Apostles, is approximately 300 km away. Head southwest on the M1 towards the city of Geelong, then change to the B100 south towards Torquay. 

Torquay is coastal resort town full of restaurants and surf shops. Only an hour and quarter from Melbourne,  it's too early on the route to spend the night, but it could be a good place to stop for lunch. Fifteen minutes from Torquay, you'll reach Bell's Beach. This is a famous surf spot and the wooden terraces offer a great spot to watch the action down below. 

The town of Lorne - where I'd be spending the first night - is only 45 minutes away, but there's lots to see along the way. 

The Road to LORNE

Fifteen minutes from Bell's Beach you'll reach the edge of Anglesea. Before the town centre there's a turnoff for the Anglesea Cliffs. Find a spot to park and follow the dirt trail down the beach where you can walk alongside the dramatic cliff face. This area is closed sporadically for safety reasons. In 2019, there was a large collapse in a popular section. Back on the road and you'll soon pass through Airey's Inlet. 

Just past Airey's Inlet you'll find the spectacular Fairhaven Beach. There are a couple of small parking areas along the road. Fairhaven is a long (6 km), wide beach with rolling surf and the hills of the Devil's Elbow as backdrop for westbound walkers. It takes more than an hour to walk its entire length. 

Towards the western end of Fairhaven Beach, you'll reach one of the most photographed spots on the route: the Memorial Arch at Eastern View. Be careful when stopping here for a photo. Cars come around the bend quickly and there can be a lot of traffic going in and out of the small parking lot. Be especially careful if crossing the road on foot for a photo. Remember that for most people, traffic will not be coming from the intuitive direction. 

Back on the road, you'll round the curves of the Devil's Elbow and reach the small town of Lorne in fifteen minutes. Lorne is a logical spot to spend your first night, the trip from Melbourne easily taking the bulk of the day with numerous stops. Lorne is also the town with the most lodging between Torquay and Apollo's Bay. It also has a proper grocery store (Foodworks). After checking into the Mantra hotel, I drove up the steep road to Teddy's Lookout. From the parking lot, you can follow several short trails for impressive views of the ocean, coast, and the forested St. George River Gorge. 

Visiting in the middle of Australian winter meant my sightseeing hours were limited. By the time I'd finished at Teddy's Lookout, the sun had set and it was time to find some dinner. If you're here from June - September, keep in mind that some restaurants will close or operate with limited hours. All that I could find open on this July evening was  Chopstix Noodle Bar, a fish & chip shop, and an expensive burrito joint. 

The next morning, I had a killer breakfast just across the street at The Bottle of Milk. 

Just outside Lorne, pull off at the Sheoak Falls car park. It's an easy and pleasant 2 km roundtrip hike up to the falls and back through the Otway Forest.

Twenty-five minutes along the B100, you'll reach the blink-and-you'll-miss it settlement of Kennett River. Across from the Kafe Koala is the foot of Grey River Rd. This is a great place for koala viewing. Just drive slowly up the road for five or ten minutes, find a safe place to pull over, and go for a walk. Spotting koalas high up in the gum trees is an exercise is patience. They're pretty lethargic animals. On this walk, I spotted about a dozen koalas, a handful of wallabies and lots of colourful birds. 

I've read a number of posts from locals who are upset about the practices of some tour groups that come through the area. In the quest for impressive photos, tourists have been feeding the beautiful king parrots. If you plan to visit Kennett River, be a responsible tourist and not to feed any wildlife. There are many opportunities to get up close and personal with animals in Australian zoos and animals rescues. 

Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles

From Kennett River it's about an hour and half to the famous Twelve Apostles. You will pass through the dense forest of Great Otway National Park and the Matis Rest Rainforest Walk (unfortunately closed for repairs during my visit). 

About a kilometre before the Twelve Apostles Visitor Centre, there's a turn off for the Gibson Steps. If they're open, the Gibson Steps will take you down to the beach for incredible views from the Twelve Apostles from beach level. During my visit, the steps were closed due to high storm surge. 

Park for free at the Twelve Apostles Visitor Centre and follow the tunnel under the highway to the viewing terraces. If you can time your visit to arrive early in the morning or visit during the low season, you won't have to elbow your way through the big crowds. At the Visitor Centre you'll find clean bathrooms and a simple cafe counter serving coffee and snacks. I visited in the late afternoon and again the next morning to see the apostles in different light. 

Despite the name, there are actually eight of these striking limestone stacks. Number nine collapsed in July 2005.

West of the Apostles are more coastal beauties worth visiting: the Razorback, Loch Ard Gorge, and the Thunder Cave, all connected by a lovely stretch of hiking trails. 

The tiny town of Port Campbell is the closest place to spend the night. With a population of only 478, choices for food and lodging are limited. Book well in advance! I have to say that I was really pleasantly surprised by The Port O Call Inn. Comfortable, well-designed rooms with large, spotless bathrooms. The place is run by a really friendly young couple. I checked in, dropped off my bags, and set out for the attractions west of the town: London Bridge, the Grotto, and the Bay of Islands. 

Warrnambool and Port Fairy

If you spent the night in Port Campbell, consider visiting the Twelve Apostles a second time the next morning to see them in a different light. 

It's an hour drive from Port Campbell to Warrnambool. The town of Warrnambool offers a number of options for a meal and several nice cafes if you're looking for a latte. Down at Logan's Beach, visit the Whale Watching Platform. Winter (Jul-Aug) is prime time to catch a glimpse of migrating pilot whales. Even without binoculars, I enjoyed hanging out here for half an hour, enjoying the view. I caught sight of half a dozen whales surfacing for air. Two volunteers with the park service were stationed on the viewing platform, helping visitors to spot whales and offering information about the migration.

On the road to Port Fairy, you'll pass by the Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve. This little sanctuary is surrounded by a lake to the east and wetlands to the west. The "island" is accessible by two roads off the A1 highway. It's free to access the site and to park your car. You can walk the trails of the reserve on your own (free) or join a tour led by an Aboriginal ranger. You'll see groups of emus, wallabies, lots of colourful birds, and if you're there in the right season, many beautiful golden penda trees in bloom. 

Just north of Tower Hill is the "historic Irish town of Koroit" You'll see the signs. There aren't any attractions, as such, in Koroit, but a quick drive down its main street offers a good chance to see a concentration of civil and residential Victorian buildings. 

I arrived in the charming, historic town of Port Fairy in the late afternoon. Walk the streets of nineteenth century cottages and old stone churches, grab a coffee and scone in one of the bakeries on Bank St, and go for a walk on Griffitt's Island. The island's paths wind along the beach, around rocky bays and over sand dunes where wallabies peer out from the bushes, finishing at the beautiful historic lighthouse. 

Given the relatively high cost of food and accommodation in Australia, it's wonderful that there are so many jaw-dropping natural attractions that travellers can enjoy at no cost. The Great Ocean Road shouldn't be missed on a trip to Victoria State.