Monastery Hopping in Serbia's FruŠka Gora National Park

Northern Serbia is one of those delightfully diverse areas of Europe where you can almost forget which country you're in. A transitional zone where cultures meet and traditions blend. From Subotica on the Hungarian border to the Vojvodinian capital of Novi Sad, this is Serbia with a twist. 

To be sure, that diversity has waned in past decades, but the legacy of northern Serbia's German, Turkish, Slovak, and especially its Hungarian populations is easy to spot in cities like Subotica and Novi Sad. In the latter you can find a Catholic cathedral,  a grand Synagogue, a Serbian Orthodox cathedral, and a Greek Orthodox church within a five block radius. 

The city of Novi Sad is well worth a visit. As is the architecturally whimsical gem of Subotica, to the north. So too is the national park located just across the Dabube River called Fruška Gora! 

Fruška Gora offers visitors the chance to enjoy pristine, forested mountain trails and sixteen beautiful Serbian Orthodox monasteries. The monks who lived behind these hills were famous for their production of illuminated manuscripts and have been hailed as vital in protecting the cultural heritage of Serbia during the long Turkish occupation. 

I visited Fruška Gora with a car, combining a few short hikes with monastery visits. Without a car, several monasteries can be visited via hiking trails, having reached the park by bus from Novi Sad. 

Eastern Orthodox iconography and church decoration is breathtaking. There's something so familiar, yet distinctly other, about the atmosphere. The monasteries of Fruška Gora were founded in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. In some, like Krušedol and Novo Hopovo, frescos exude an antique quality. Others, like Grgeteg, have been treated to modern restoration. 

Fruška Gora once hosted more than 30 monasteries. Some were damaged or destroyed by the Turkish occupiers while others were lost in the violence of the first and second World Wars. 

Krušedol, pictured above, is perhaps the region's most famous. Depicted on the Serban 5 dinar coin, this monastery contains frescos from the 16th century and hosts the grave of King Milan Obrenović. During the Second World War, it was used as a prison by the Facist Ustaša to hold Partisan fighters.

Grgeteg Monastery has been renovated extensively in recent years; it's paintings and altar pieces gleam brightly. Grgeteg is home to the famous Three Handed Icon of Mary and the infant Jesus. This copy of the Greek icon at Chilandare is considered the protector of the whole Fruška Gora region. 

As the story goes, the hand of 8th century monk John Damascene was ordered cut off by the Caliph for suspected treason. The monk fell to his knees before the icon and begged for Mary to heal him. Upon awakening, his hand had been miraculously reattached. In thanks and recognition, a third hand of pure silver was added to the icon. 

Novo Hoppovo's 12-sided dome reflects classical Byzantine design. Though the church was badly damaged and ransacked during the Second World War, it remains one of the most evocative in Fruška Gora. It's frescos, including The Massacre of the Children at Vitlejem look older than their true age as a result of the building's turbulent past. 

The charming town of Sremski Karlovci is located to the east Fruška Gora on the banks of the Danube. A visit here makes for a great finale to your Fruška Gora exploration! Sremski Karlovci plays host to the Patriarchate Court of the Serbian Orthodox Church (essentially, a Serbian Vatican.) The town was on the military frontier of the Austrian and Ottoman empires and Vienna splashed its money around the make an impression on visitors from the Turkish realm.

Many other fine buildings dot the town centre, including the municipal hall, a seminary, St. Nicholas and Holy Trinity cathedrals, and the hugely prestigious Karlovći Academy. 

Sremski Karlovci's town centre has several fine restaurants, including the very well-regarded (and rather pricey) Bermet Villa. I had an excellent lunch (roasted goose and home-made pasta in a peppery cream sauce) at Gostiona Kod 4 Lava. 

Many of the monasteries are found along the southern edge of Fruška Gora National Park, approximately 40 minutes drive from Novi Sad. 

Busses depart Novi Sad Train Station. Routes 72, 74, and 78 all reach Fruška Gora. Inquire with drivers or station staff, as services are subject to change. 

None of these monasteries charge an entry fee (as of December 2022). Limited parking is available. Though entrance is free, all of the monasteries accept donations. Several sell honey and fruit brandy produced on the properties.

While the monasteries don't charge a fee, there is a charge of approximately 100 dinar to enter the National Park from the visitor centre. 

Public bathrooms are available outisde of the monastery gatehouse at Krušedol. 

Respectful dress is required and visitors should remain quiet and sedate when entering the churches. Most of your fellow visitors will be local Serbs, for whom these buildings hold tremendous historical and spiritual significance.