the western highlands and the stunning Isle of Skye

Despite being only one component nation of the United Kingdom, Scotland is vast. The driving distances are considerable and the petrol isn't cheap. Planning what you want to see and booking your vehicle well in advance are indispensable to a successful road trip. 

My partner in crime for this trip was one of my oldest friends, Oliver. I'm lucky in that this is a guy who, once convinced to go on a trip, is pretty much game for anything as long as I do the planning. We were both interested in seeing Scotland's most famous cities: Glasgow, Stirling, and Edinburgh. Likewise, we both wanted to get out and explore the Scottish countryside and do some hiking. This post will focus on the six days we spent on the road. 

ITINERARY

A: Glasgow Airport
B: Luss / Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park
C: Oban / Taynuilt
D: Glencoe
E: Fort William / Ben Nevis
F: Isle of Skye
G: Return to Glasgow, along the A82 through the Glencoe Pass

After visiting family in Dublin and Belfast, we flew into Scotland. There are a surprising number of direct routes. It's possible to fly from the Belfast City Airport to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, and the city of Carlisle (for Dumfries and Galloway). We came in and out using Edinburgh and Glasgow airports, which both have affordable public transit options.

We booked a car with Avis for roughly $45/day. Like many European countries, rental cars in Scotland equipped with automatic transmission come at a premium. If like me, you never learned to drive a manual, pay close attention when making your booking. If you book the cheapest option without reading the small print, you'll end up with a stick shift. 

Having picked-up the car at Glasgow airport, I sat behind the wheel and willed my muscle memories of left-side traffic to return. 

Oban / Taynuilt 

Back on the road to Oban, we pass the village of Taynuilt. Hotels in Oban were pricey, so we opted to spend the night at the Taynuilt Inn. It was along this stretch of road that I began to notice the distinct narrowing of the roadway. Driving on the opposite side of the road means reorienting your spatial awareness. This was far from my first time driving on the left side, but the when the narrow roads were thrown into the mix, things got hairy. 

Oliver: You're really close to the edge.
Jimmy: Sorry, I know!
Oliver: You're still really close.
Jimmy: There's no room on this side! F***! (transport truck speeds by at what feels like a distance of 30 cm)

Long stretches of the A85 have no shoulder, just a curb against which I grazed the tires a few dozen times. How harrowing this would have been had it not been my first day of driving in Scotland... we'll never know. 

Glencoe and Fort William

For many, hiking in the Pass of Glencoe is a highlight of their trip. The scenery here is absolutely stunning. We approached from the west, but it's the drive through the pass along the A82 from Crianlarich that will make your jaw drop. (We drove this route later in the trip).  The Glencoe Visitor Centre is 10 minutes from the village of Glencoe. Knowledgeable staff will provide you with a map and make recommendations on hiking routes based on the current weather, how much time you have, and will even check out your footwear. Routes range from an hour to full day-hikes, moderate to difficult. 

There was a lot of mist and rain on the day of our hike so the views higher up were obscured. The glimpses we got in the clear moments, though, were breathtaking. 

The loch-side town of Fort William (30 minutes from Glencoe) is a good place to eat and is a jumping off point for Ben Nevis, Scotland's tallest mountain. For hardcore hikers, Fort William is a starting point for the Great Glen Way; a trail that stretches all the way to Inverness. 

From Fort William it's 2.5 - 3.5 hours to the Portree, the main town on the Isle of Skye. Plan to stop along the way at the charming Eilean Donan Castle, which sits atop a tiny islet in Loch Duich. We arrived shortly after the castle stopped admitting visitors for the day but we were able to cross the short causeway and enjoy views of the castle's exterior. The setting is terribly romantic, and as we were leaving, a wedding party arrived. 

Accommodation on the Isle of Skye is limited and can be hard to come by if you don't book well in advance. If there are rooms available, expect to pay a premium in Portree, the island's main town. Instead, we opted to stay in the north of the island in the village of Uig. The Cowshed Bunkhouse has the nicest hostel bunks I've ever seen, a huge communal kitchen and gorgeous views over the bay. Note that there is only one small market in Uig. You'll probably want to buy your groceries at one of the two Co-Op Supermarkets in Portree. 

The Isle of Skye is, simply put, magic. We spent three days here. If you enjoy hiking and amazing scenery, you could easily stretch that to four or five. There are things to see all over the island but the most famous sites are located in the northern half. Here are the six attractions on Skye that you really shouldn't miss. If you're determined, it's possible to fit in all six on a (very busy) two-day visit. 

The Fairy Glen

Located a short drive from our accommodations in Uig is the enchanting Fairy Glen. A magical valley of natural rock formations, conical hills, ponds and waterfalls. It's possible to climb many of these hills but the paths are narrow and a fall would result in serious injury. Watch your step! Note that after heavy rain, the dirt access road can become a mud trap. Avoid those deep puddles! (Free) 

The Quiraing

There's a reason you may recognize this stunning landscape. It's been the star backdrop in a number of films including 2015's Macbeth starring Michael Fassbender. The Needle, The Table, and The Prison, together make up this must-see spot. (Free) 

Neist Point Lighthouse 

Neist Point, at the southwestern tip of the Duirinish Peninsula, offers beautiful views of the sea cliffs and the lighthouse that has guided mariners for more than a century. Though we didn't spot any, we were told that this is a good location for whale watching. The carpark and trailhead is located just over a kilometre from the lighthouse. The trail down to the lighthouse includes a long stretch of rather steep stairs. (Free) 

The Storr

Pay your respects to the Old Man of Storr, found just 20 minutes north of Portree on route A855. You may recognize the rock formations from films like Prometheus. The "old man" is the dramatic column of standing rock. The views from the trail up towards the Old Man offer fantastic views over the water to the Isle of Raasay. The trail up from the car park and back down is 3.8 km and depending on your level of fitness could take between 1.5 - 2 hours. (Free) 

Claigan Coral Beach

Located on the west cost of Skye, not far from Dunvegan Castle. If you're lucky enough to visit on a sunny day, you'll be treated to a view of the beautiful blues and turquoise of the shallow water between the shore and the islets of Lampay. It's an easy 20-25 minute walk from the carpark to the beach. (Free) 

The Fairy Pools 

A favourite of wild swimming enthusiasts, the Fairy Pools are a series of rock pools and waterfalls. If you like cold water, bring your swimsuit. The path follows the course of the stream and there are endless places to stop and gaze at the pools and the surrounding mountains. From the carpark, it's a 15 - 20 minute walk to the first of the pools. You can extend the experience by walking 45 - 60 minutes towards the foot of Bruach na Frìthe.