Vietnam Newbie

It's beautiful, it's chaotic and it's changing fast. If you're a traveller with a lot of experience in Southeast Asia, there will be a lot that is familiar about Vietnam. But if it's is your first entry to the Indochinese Peninsula, you're in for some surprises! (That's why we all travel, isn't it?!) There's a reason some backpackers travel to Vietnam over and over again. Visit once and you'll quickly discover why. 

10 Tips for a Vietnam Newbie 

Cash is King
Though credit cards are accepted at many hotels, upscale and chain restaurants, it was my experience that Vietnam is still very much a cash society. 

There are a few things you'll need to remember about operating in Vietnamese Dong (VND). Given that USD $1 is worth approximately 23,000 dong, you're going to have to deal with a lot of zeroes. Never allow yourself to be rushed by a vendor or an impatient person behind you in line. Count those zeroes! The denominations are differently coloured but all feature the same portrait of Ho Chi Minh on one side. It's an easy mistake to hand over a 500,000 note instead of a 50,000 note. 

There are also some quirks to the currency exchange in system in Vietnam. Even the large banks sometimes refuse to change any currency aside from USD. In smaller towns, banks sometimes refuse to change any currency for travellers whether you have ID or not. Luckily, ATMs now seem to available just about everywhere and I had no trouble using my overseas card (2019). But banks, hotels and Forex offices aren't where you'll find the best rate. In Hanoi, it's common for jewelry stores to operate an exchange office (often on an upper floor). It's useful to have an app like XE on your smartphone so that you can check if the rate you're being offered is fair.

Visas
Citizens of most countries require a visa to visit Vietnam. As visa requirements change, it is essential to get up-to-date information by checking with the Vietnamese embassy in your country. At the time of publishing, citizens of the following countries are eligible for visa-free travel or a visa-on-arrival: all ASEAN countries, Belarus, Chile, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Kyrgyzstan, Norway, Russia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, the UK. Citizens of most other countries can now apply online for an eVisa. The process is quick and you'll receive your visa in the mail. My visa, applied for in June of 2019, cost USD $25 and arrived within two weeks. 

Buy Train Tickets in Advance (whenever you can)
Vietnam has a solid train network but a challenge faced by travellers is that (as of Jan 2020) it's impossible to book Vietnam Railways tickets online with a foreign credit card. If you are already in Vietnam, you can hold tickets online and pay in person at a train station within 48 hours. There are third-party sites that will make your bookings on the ground in Vietnam, but they charge a premium. 1,2,GO Asia and Baolau are two such sites. The Man in Seat 61 is a fantastic website edited by Mark Smith that is my go-to source for all railroad travel research.  

In my case, I bought tickets for daytime journeys a few days ahead, in person, at the station. I took one sleeper train (Hanoi to Hue) which I purchased through Baolau in advance to be sure that I could travel on my intended date. Life onboard Vietnamese trains can be colourful! This was the scene on my daytime train from Hue to Danang... 

Download Grab
Unfortunately, Vietnam has its share of taxi scams. Ride share apps have their critics and they've got some good points. But the inescapable reality for me as is that I feel much better knowing how much a ride is going to cost me and what route my driver is going to take. It's also a great way to save your local currency by charging your rides to a credit card. If you have a Vietnamese SIM card or if you can access the WiFi in a hotel or cafe, use the Southeast Asian equivalent of Uber/Lyft - GRAB.  

With Grab, you can hail a private car, a licensed taxi, a motorbike (helmet provided) and order food. I used all four of these options and found it to be equally reliable to Uber/Lyft. Be sure to select your desired payment method, as Grab also has a cash option. Travellers from most countries will find that the fares are an unbelievable bargain. 

Get Connected
It's easy and affordable to purchase a Vietnamese SIM card to stay connected during your trip. It's invaluable for looking up directions, checking an attraction's hours, ordering a ride share, and keeping in touch with your loved ones. Before you travel, check with your service provider at home to make sure your phone is unlocked. Check out my post on SIM cards for more information on getting connected in Vietnam. 

Go Beyond Pho
Pho is delicious. That's just a fact. But there is so much more to Vietnamese cuisine! Ask for the proprietor's advice, sneak a peak at your neighbours' grub, and resolve to try something new every day. A crusty bánh mì, a steaming bowl of bún chả, savoury bánh xèo, chewy cao lầu noodles,  some bánh cuốn rolls dipped in a sauce flavoured by giant water bug, or my personal favourite - bun bo nam bo. Follow it all up with one of the many varieties of chè ; sweet dessert "soups" consisting of shaved ice, fruit, beans, corn, nuts, jellies, and more. For details and photos on all the dishes above, check out this post: Go Beyond Pho.

Speak Up!
If you've just come from Myanmar, Laos or Cambodia, you may feel invisible in Vietnam. Because they've been firmly entrenched on the tourist trail far longer than their neighbours (save Thailand), the Vietnamese aren't as overtly curious about foreigners. But I found that Viet people are very friendly and willing to offer help or directions... if you ask them! As elsewhere, you'll generate a lot of goodwill by bracketing your English questions with a few words in Vietnamese. A basic greeting is "xin chào" ('scene chow'). You thank someone by saying cám ơn ('kaam oon'). 

Don't Let Scams Ruin Your Visit
Vietnam is a rapidly developing country. Still, the perceived wealth of foreign visitors means that some locals will try to take advantage. Before my trip, I read an article by the well-known travel blogger Nomadic Matt. He was so put off by his experiences of being overcharged and misled that he swore that he'd never to go back to Vietnam. 

My experience was nothing like this. But perhaps having read warnings had an impact on my behaviour. I always bought food at stalls, storefronts and carts that had clearly marked prices. In sit down restaurants, I checked for a picture of the menu on their Google Maps review. I used Grab rather than hailing taxis so that the fares were set in advance. I checked my change carefully. Buy train tickets directly from the station rather than an agent or hotel tour desk. Remember to ask for a price before you take hold of anything and don't be afraid to walk away if the price seems inflated. (If you do, you're likely to hear a lower price yelled out.)

Be Ready for the Weather
The climate in Vietnam varies considerably. Are you planning to visit the Sapa Highlands? Are you travelling to the north from November to January? It may surprise you to know that the average morning temperature in the winter is only 15 degrees. You'll need to be prepared for considerable rain from June to September in the north and from May to October in the south. 

Are you really ready to ride a motorbike?
The number one cause of traveller fatalities is road traffic accidents. Scooters and motorbikes are widely available to rent in Vietnam for as little as $4 USD/day. The beautiful countryside and sense of freedom makes this an attractive option. I've rented scooters in Java, Bali, Vietnam and Thailand and didn't find Vietnam especially challenging, but because of the horrendous traffic in Hanoi and Saigon, I opted to stick to walking and ride share in those two cities. It's very unlikely that renters in Vietnam will be asked for proof of a motorcycle licence. But ask yourself: when14,000 people die annually on the roads in Vietnam, is this really the best for to learn how to drive a motorcycle?